March 12, 2007
Japan, Music
4 Comments
Sorry for the LONG absence. I have been (a) unmotivated to write, (b) discouraged by the seemingly endless spam that somehow breaks through my countless filters and banned words, (c) a lazy punk. Things here haven’t been much different. February was officially the longest month of the year this year, at least for Nicole and me. Both of our international driving permits expired last month and we had to fight through the Japanese bureaucracy to earn our Japanese licenses. It was almost enough to make us give up, but we are both happy we had the strength of will to persevere. I knew that it would be a true living experience, and I feel like I know the country all the better for having gone through it. I feel like I can now say that I LIVED in Japan. Nicole’s blog has some good details about her experience. I was kind of thrown into the test the first time, having no idea what to expect. My boss just took me to the “DMV” and said, “now you will pass the test,” and I didn’t. After that I had a month to take some driving classes in which I learned all the ridiculously meticulous details you must know to pass the test. I have no idea how my boss thought I could pass without even being exposed to those ideas, but it is past now, and Nicole and I both have out licenses.
To celebrate, we went to see Bloc Party in Tokyo on the 4th of March. I have always enjoyed their music, and, despite some sound and equipment issues, their live show was fantastic. Live music has the ability, for me, to both increase my appreciation for a band, or ruin their music for me. Luckily, they really rocked the block…party…and I went away with a greater appreciation for their recorded music as well.
Music is something I have felt a bit distanced from of late. Nicole has been very good about keeping up on the current bands, and I have relied a lot on her for new music. I hope that changes when I get my new iPod next month. Let me know if you have any suggestions or new music tastes.
August 2, 2006
Japan, Music
3 Comments
A lot has happened since the last entry: a visit to the monkey/ninja infested town of Nikko, an Italian opera about Japan, a bunch of stuff that you can read about over at Nicole’s blog. Today I want to talk about last Sunday and Fuji Rock Festival.
Fuji Rock Festival is Japan’s biggest rock festival, and it is world famous as one of the best music festivals in the world. The bands booked for the three-day event run from some of the largest names in rock, such as the Red Hot Chili Peppers, to the obscure Clap Your Hands Say Yeah (who sadly had to bow out due to vocal chord problems, possibly brought on by the singers unique brand of singing).
Because of our busy work schedule, we were only able to attend on Sunday, the last day of the festival. Despite the misleading name, the festival is held at a ski resort in Niigata prefecture, not at Fuji-san, which is nice because Naeba Ski Resort is only about an hour and a half drive from here. While the scenery was not as famous it was every bit as beautiful.
We started the day off with a dose of Taiko Drumming by a band called Kodo. I have wanted to see Kodo since high school when my friend Nick saw them in San Francisco for his Birthday and brought me a tape. It was a moving experience of lung-shaking drum beats with guys in underwear pounding 10 food Taiko drums. It was unfortunate that we only got to see the last part of the show.
We stayed that the same stage for the next band, the Refugee All-Stars of Sierra Leon. A nice dose of rock steady, reggae beats with some African vibes and traditional dancing. There was a good energy coming from the band and audience as people cheered for the representatives of the war-torn nation.
After that was a French band called Rinoçerose (sorry I can’t type the circumflex) who were an interesting mix of hardcore techno and glam rock. The lead singer came on stage wearing a robe with the microphone stuffed in his underwear. It was a scene I was surprised to see in Japan and brought now meaning to the phrase “Rock out with your cock out.”
After Rinoçerose, We went to see Snow Patrol, from Scotland. I left midway through the set to go see Broken Social Scene, who were one of the highlights of the day. Their music was energetic and well performed, and their stage presence was playful. After they finished their set, the crowd began to disperse, but some people stayed and cheered, then a strange thing happened for a festival. They came back out and gave us an impromptu encore. I have a feeling the next band was running late, for which I am thankful because the last song was a brand new one that no one had heard before and it was excellent. We also bumped into Saleema and Dave, some friends from Tokyo, at the BSS show, and spent parts of the rest of the day with them. Nicole originally met Saleema in France; it goes to show how small the world is.
Then the fun really picked up when we went to see the Raconteurs, Jack White’s new band. This was when the rock really started flowing and you could feel it in the audience, like the day was building up energy for the last few bands. The Raconteurs rock more live than they do on CD so I am glad I got to see them. I will definitely go to another show next time I have a chance. The highlight of their set was a cover of the Nancy Sinatra song, Bang Bang. Jack sang it with such emotion, I felt for sure there was a story behind his choosing to cover that particular song, but it could just be his genius as a musician as well.
After the Raconteurs came the Stokes, who we left early because their live show is pretty much like listening to their CD. We hurried from the Stroke to see the Supper Furry Animals, who totally rock live. Their presence is fun and goofy, one guy played the last song with a Red Power Ranger helmet on.
The final band of the day was Mogwai, who were good, but I have just never gotten really into them. I was glad to see them live, though.
We got out of the festival grounds by around 1 am after a good 14 hours of Rock.
July 3, 2006
Japan
3 Comments
The Forth of July is an interesting holiday for me this year. Having never been one to celebrate it with much fanfare in the past-a few fireworks, a hot dog, and friends is about as far as I have ever gone-I find myself now far from home and with a new perspective on our nation’s birthday.
I wouldn’t exactly consider myself an expat at this point-I have always thought that to be deserving of that title, my sojourn would have to be much longer, even permanent-but when I left the US, I did so with not a little anger at how my country has been acting for the last few years.
Today is an opportunity for me to love my country without feeling like I must love its administration to do so. The ideals on which America was founded are still there, no matter how twisted politicians controt them in the name of Wartime Powers.
Living in a forign country is not easy, but it is rewarding. One of the greatest rewards is the multiculturalism and broader world view that one must aquire or else become too jaded to see and grow. In all of my internationl travels, I have found that one of the best feelings I have experienced is a certain pride at being an American; not an arrogant, holier than thou attitude that I have seen in many other westerners in places like India and Madagascar, but a pride at the ideals on which America was founded and the oportunity for me to express them, as a diplomat for my country, to people who might only think of America as a great internation oppressor.
In keeping with my continual desire for a broader world view, Nicole and I have been playfully looking at the cost of rent in the newest UN member country, Montenegro. Appartments are pretty cheap, and we might be able to live there for a while on the money we make here, but it is utter speculation and dreaming at this point. Both of us are torn each day between the money of Japan, the romance of Europe, and the call of home, we don’t know where we will be a year from now, but we know we won’t be in Gunma.
June 14, 2006
Japan
3 Comments
We celebrated my birthday on the 11th this year. Nicole and I took a bus to Tokyo first thing in the morning and found ourselves thrust into the pile of humanity that is Shinjuku Station at 9:30 am on a Sunday morning. Shinjuku is the busiest train station in the world, having more people pass through it every day that any other station on Earth. During rush hour they have people called “pushers” whose job it is to get a running start and cram the passengers into the subway cars so the doors can close. I avoid the Tokyo metro at rush hour.
We met up with an old Japanese friend named Yumiko whom I met while at Sonoma State. I was first introduced to her by Jim McElroy, my 4th and 5th grade teacher. Yumiko is now teaching English at a university in Tokyo and she brough one of her students, Taichi, along to show us around (and to practice his English. We were lucky in that Yumiko’s students were all very skilled in English).
So the four of us got on a train to a place called Kamakura, about 1 hour south of Tokyo, where we were to meet up with two more of Yumiko’s students, Takashi and Manami. Once we arrived and met up with everyone, the tour began. Manami was quite a tour guide and had a wonderful day planned out for us. It was a little rainy, but I think that was a good thing, because as it was the crowds were large and the weather hot.
We visited several old temples and shrines, including a temple called Hydrangia Temple, where there was a large golden Buddha and a beautifuly landscaped grounds, filled with pristine ponds and blooming flowers.
All this temple viewing can work up an appetite, so we found a restaurant that served okanomiyaki (a kind of “empty the fridge out” pancake that is quite tasty) and Manja (a kind of “empty the fridge out” gooey paste that is also “oishi” yummy). We had to cook our own food, which was an experience that is actually rather common at restaurants in Japan. Generally, either you eat it raw or you have to cook it yourself.
We then moved on to the famous giant bronze statue of Buddha, where we actually got to go inside and pat his belly for good luck.
After that we piled back onto the tiny train that takes us through downtown Kamakura and back to the main staition. We returned to Tokyo and met up with Jim (aka Mr. Mac) and went to an Izekaya for snacks and beer. There is something internally satisfying about sharing a drink with your former 4th grade teacher, like a kind of right of passage.
After all of this it was getting late so Nicole and I had to go catch the bus home. Next weekend we are going to finish off the b-day celebrations with a good dose of bungee jumping.

From left: Nicole, Me, Manami, Taishi, Takashi

Nicole, Jim, and Yumiko at the izekaya in Shinjuku.
May 26, 2006
Japan
1 Comment
I can’t think of Frankenstein anymore without seeing the “Puttin’ on the Ritz” scene from ‘Young Frankenstein’ in my head.
Anyway, sorry for the lack of updates. It is inexcusable, and I have no reason to offer other than that I have been busying myself with writing of a different sort. Yes, I have been writing; dusting off the ol’ prose machine and getting back to work. It was a goal of mine to come back to the states with a manuscript. I don’t know how realistic that is. When I left, I was about a third of the way done writing a fantastical childeren’s story, but as I write I learn more about my characters and what is really happening so what I wrote will have to be entirely rewritten. I guess that is what a first draft is for.
I ordered about 6 books from Amazon on the art of writing, develouping effective characters, and plot structures. So far they have been very informative, if a little daunting in showing me just how much I have to learn.
Needless to day, it has been a fun learning experience.
Life in Japan has not been without its perks as well. Nicole has a wonderful entery on a trip to Tokyo if you want to check out her blog. Aside from our time in Tokyo, which is a wonderful city where we would both like to live for a while, it has pretty much been nose to the grindstone as we begin to understand that we want to finish our contract here so we can relocate.
Sorry for the long time between updates. I can’t promise it won’t happen again.
Meanwhile, here are some pictures from Tokyo.

A festival in Asakusa, Tokyo.

Nicole in front of the gate to the Imperial Gardens in Tokyo.
April 6, 2006
Japan
3 Comments
One of the most popular “junk food” dishes here in Japan is called tako yaki. For those of you who frequent sushi restaurants, you may know that tako is octopus. This particular dish is octopus fried inside a bready ball and covered in mayonaise and brown sauce. The stuff on top that looks like sawdust and wood shavings is actually dried salted fish.

Nicole and I now affectionately refer to this regional favorite as tako yukky, and steer clear of it at the parks and fairgrounds.
Speaking of the parks, apparently a large number of people ride their 19th century bicycles to the park to look at the cherry blossoms.

This is the view that you get to enjoy after riding your ridiculous and cumbersome bike to the park and struggling to lock it up.

This is Nicole enjoying that same view. (Note: she didn’t bother with the bicycle.)

And this is a beautiful shrine that is about 2 km away from our house. It is very old, and one feels the weight of its years while walking through its ancient grounds.
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